Our five-pronged approach focuses on your individual strengths to develop your unique qualities towards making you an exemplary pi- designer.
Mohini Jhunjhunwala
21/02/2024
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Table of contents
One Manhattan night in 1954, a picture made history when Marilyn Monroe’s ivory-white cocktail dress collided with an upward breeze on a subway grate. Captured during the filming of The Seven Year Itch, Monroe’s “flying skirt” has become an important part of pop culture. The image has been imitated in countless fashion shoots and used by various brands as part of their advertising. The pose and the dress became synonymous with Marilyn and the picture is now a notable moment of her legacy. Such is the power of fashion photography as it creates an everlasting impression on people’s minds.
In 1926, a 'little black dress' made an appearance in Vogue. This 'little black dress' was Coco Chanel's revolutionary design, captured in black and white, which went on to redefine fashion and become a statement piece in every woman’s closet. The image challenged conventional notions of fashion, demonstrating that beauty doesn’t need to be confined to extravagant ensembles but could be found in simplicity as well. Today, that dress has been reinterpreted and photographed many times, symbolising Chanel's everlasting influence and legacy.
Similarly, a lehenga designed by Sabyasachi can be easily recognised from anywhere because the photographs of his collection captures not just the garment, but the craftsmanship, cultural pride and storytelling that lie at the heart of the brand.
In a world where fashion is moving faster by the day, creating a legacy is what brands strive for. Fashion photography is a visual medium that not only aids these brands in showcasing their products but also helps in telling their story in a much more engaging way than just words. A carefully curated image can take you to a world the brand creates, letting you feel its character and energy. It's the difference between reading a product label and reading a story.
Beyond the artsy poses and alluring campaigns, fashion photography serves as a brand's window to the world, capturing not just its aesthetic but its identity, its values, and its aspirations, ensuring its place in the ever-evolving landscape of fashion history.
Fashion, at its core, is more than just fabric and threads. Just like any other art form, it is a way to express ourselves and our aspirations. Fashion communication breathes life into this language, giving clothes context, depth and meaning. Visual communication is another form of storytelling, which involves sharing knowledge and creating an experience through various visual media.
Pictures are powerful tools of visual communication, and in the context of fashion photography, clothes become characters, sets become settings and lighting creates the mood. Iconic images can become timeless representations of a brand's identity.
Fashion communication is what gives context to the designs. Whether capturing a groundbreaking fashion moment or communicating a brand's evolution, images become a visual archive of a brand's journey.
A brand legacy is a complex idea that includes its long-lasting influence on society, the emotional connection it has with customers, and its ongoing significance. It is not necessarily about how many decades the brand has existed, but rather about the recall value a particular brand has managed to create for itself through its iconic visuals. Fashion communication plays a very important role in maintaining these legacies, especially with visuals as it is usually the first touchpoint of the brand for any customer and tells them a lot about the brand and its story.
The more luxurious legacy brands are often characterised by opulence, immaculate lighting and attention to detail in their fashion photography. These visual cues convey a sense of exclusivity and high quality, aligning with their brand identity.
Through vivid pictures, fashion communication can set the tone of the brand efficiently. It can be very useful for creating a lasting brand legacy by:
The power of brand storytelling through photography goes beyond the immediate impact of a campaign. It leaves a mark on our memory, shaping our perceptions of brands and influencing future trends.
1840s Genesis in Portraiture: The profession of fashion photography finds its roots in the art of Victorian society's portraiture. Debutantes, actors and dancers stood for portrait photographers in their elegant attire as early as the 1840s, following in the footsteps of their mothers who had sat for the famous portrait painters of their day.
1909 Vogue Takes the Stage: Condé Nast's acquisition of the American social magazine Vogue marks a turning point. The magazine leveraged innovative photography, featuring glamorous models and showcasing international styles, such as Horst P. Horst's minimalist elegance and Irving Penn's timeless compositions. This transformation paved the way for the relaunch of Harper's Bazaar shortly after. Harper’s Bazaar used creative photography and an expanding pool of attractive models to explore the essence and styles of New York, London and Paris.
1947 Post-War Rebellion: The "New Look" by Dior revolutionized fashion, and photography followed suit. Richard Avedon's "Dovima with Elephants" embodies this spirit, breaking free from rigid studio settings and reflecting a newfound desire for liberation. The picture remains a celebrated symbol of Avedon's extraordinary talent for capturing moments of transcendent beauty and his revolutionary approach to fashion photography that continues to inspire generations of photographers and artists.
1960s Social Commentary on Film: The feminist movement and social change influenced fashion photography. Brands like Chanel once synonymous with stiff studio portraits, embraced the fluidity of movement, showcasing their designs through candid shots of everyday Parisian life, reflecting women's newfound freedom. Helmut Newton's provocative portraits challenge traditional femininity, sparking conversations and pushing boundaries.
1970s Femininity and Sexuality: In this era, photographers increasingly tested the limits of acceptable fashion imagery. Photographers such as Arthur Elgort endeavoured to show women in easy-to-wear clothes as they went about their everyday routines. With brands like Yves Saint Laurent coming up with increasingly modern designs, they engaged with society's changing attitudes towards femininity. The ‘70s also saw the introduction of hypersexuality into fashion photography by photographers such as Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton.
1990s The Grunge Movement: A new genre of fashion photography that featured unkempt models in run-down settings gained popularity thanks to the work of British photographer Corinne Day. The use of harsh lighting had a raw realism, completely in contrast with the more idealised imagery of the previous decades. The fashion industry's adoption of the grunge look from Seattle prompted photographers to experiment with darker themes, leading to the creation of "heroin chic," which featured eerily thin models like Kate Moss, artificially made up to appear sickly.
Today, with the rise of social media, fashion communication is led by pixels. The scope of a career in fashion communication is more lucrative than ever, for photographers and brand managers alike. Gucci's exquisite campaign, created by Alessandro Michele blends historical references with fictional references, creating dreamlike narratives that challenge perceptions of fashion and reality. The rise of social media influencers and diverse voices like photographer Tyler Mitchell, who captures the essence of individuality for brands like Marc Jacobs, showcases how storytelling has democratised the field.
In today's world, the importance of fashion photography in branding cannot be overstated. With low attention spans and everyday information overload, brands need to break through the clutter and deliver their message in a way that is quick, effective and emotionally engaging. A single photo has the power to connect with an audience beyond language and demographics in a way that words cannot.
Fashion photography is not just about selling clothes; it's about selling an aspirational lifestyle. It's about creating a brand recall that outlives the next season's trends. A brand's legacy is not built overnight. It's a continuous process of evolution and adaptation while maintaining originality.
Other than setting the narrative, these photos also tell the audience about the brand’s aesthetics, colour palette, the target group, all through the use of carefully picked out styles, composition, lighting and models. In a lot of cases, these photos become the first touchpoint of the brand for the customer and if it is not appealing, the customer might not interact with the brand at all. So, the role of images in brand storytelling is critical and every little detail of that image needs to be planned out before it is released in the public domain.
The way that people view the fashion industry has changed drastically in recent years. Brands have to take each step carefully in a world where beauty standards have changed and overconsumption has become the norm. These challenges extend to their visual communication as well, as they have to keep a lot of factors in mind before each shoot, red carpet, and event. Such as:
A. Pressure for constant innovation
1. Balancing creativity with commercial demands: Fashion photography has evolved a lot in the last couple of decades and the addition of social media to the mix has made everything more fast-paced than ever. The consumption of content is so instant that the moment you release something new, people are already wondering what will come next. This has fashion brands constantly striving to keep up with their creative standards in their collections as well as their visual communication. Fast consumption also means that the audience has seen it all, from standing in front of a coloured background to posing on a busy street, so now there is a constant need for photographers to innovate and experiment with newer styles of pictures and poses that surprise them enough to be engaging.
B. Ethical considerations in fashion photography
1. Retouching and body image concerns: Unrealistic images have been a matter of discontent in recent years. People have raised their voices against excessive retouching, as it creates unrealistic beauty standards, contributing to body image issues and negative perceptions of certain people, especially among young audiences. Promoting diversity and inclusivity in body types and skin tones is crucial. Many brands are adopting transparency guidelines for retouching and employing models of various body types and races to combat these unrealistic standards.
2. Cultural sensitivity and representation: Fashion photography has historically lacked diversity, often reinforcing cultural stereotypes and appropriation. One infamous case involved Vogue magazine in 2017, which faced backlash for a photoshoot featuring model Karlie Kloss dressed as a geisha. Many criticized the shoot for its cultural insensitivity and for perpetuating stereotypes about Japanese culture. Vogue issued an apology in response to the outcry.
But as society is becoming more open and accepting, a lot of people of different genders, ethnicities, and sizes have taken an affinity to express themselves through their fashion choices. Brands are moving forward with time and have added a range of colours, sizes and androgynous clothes to their collections. In visual communication also, it is essential to prioritise inclusivity and cultural sensitivity in casting, styling, and creative concepts. Photographers need to be mindful of respecting and accurately depicting different cultures and ethnicities.
While the timelessness of captured moments remains unchallenged, the face of fashion photography is constantly evolving. The digital age has started with a new era of experimentation, where the role of images in brand storytelling is bigger than ever. Brands are using still photography, videography, and even interactive elements to create immersive experiences that engage their audience on a multi-sensory level.
Even well-established legacy brands are striving harder than ever to keep up with the changes. A few factors that contribute to this change are:
The future of fashion communication is exciting and uncertain, as the consumption pattern will continue to change. However, the importance of fashion photography in branding and building legacies will remain constant. In this evolving world, brands that engage with their audience authentically, offer more value than just clothes and use their resources to connect with consumers on a deeper level will emerge successful.
Wrap-up
Through the lens of talented photographers, brands can weave stories and create timeless images that resonate with their audience. In the digital age, where visual content is consumed at an unprecedented pace, the importance of fashion photography in branding has only intensified. By understanding the landscape of fashion communication, especially visual communication and recognising its power to shape brand perception, businesses can leverage this art form to not only sell their products but also build a lasting brand legacy that resonates with consumers for generations to come.
Links to be interlinked:
https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/exploring-arts-influence-on-visual-communication/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/importance-of-fashion-communication-in-the-fashion-industry/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/10-career-options-for-fashion-communication-graduates/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/fashion-design-versus-fashion-communication/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/fashion-magazine-cover-page-journey-through-100-years/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/the-evolving-role-of-fashion-communication/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/fashion-communication-as-a-career/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/what-is-fashion-communication/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/fashion-communication-in-digital-age/ https://www.iiad.edu.in/the-circle/what-is-fashion-communication-guide-for-eligibility-scope-and-career-opportunities/
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