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Anushka Das
26/02/2024
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“The history of India may well be written with textile as its leading motif. In khadi, which has come to be referred to as the fabric of India, we triumphed in the liberation war. No other nation in the world has access to as many thriving cultures and traditions as does ours.”
by Shri Jawaharlal Nehru, First Prime Minister of India
Traditional textiles hold a unique place in the intricate cultural fabric woven by societies across the globe, showcasing the rich heritage and artistic skills of communities. Traditional textiles are not just garments; they are threads that weave the stories of generations, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of societies.
In India, a country known for its diverse cultural landscape, traditional artisans are crucial in creating exquisite textiles that portray the vivid evolution of past generations. With the passage of time, the survival of these age-old crafts faces numerous challenges in the modern era. In recent times, the importance of consumers, both in India and globally, in supporting traditional artisans and contributing to the preservation of traditional textiles has been highly felt and contemplated. By making conscious choices, consumers can empower artisans, preserve cultural heritage, and contribute to the resilience of traditional textile crafts.
Traditional textiles are more than just pieces of fabric; they represent the history, craftsmanship, and fashion identity of communities. In India, the textile industry has been a cornerstone of cultural impression for centuries. Each region boasts of its unique weaving techniques, dyeing methods and traditional motifs, showcasing the diversity and creativity contributing to the country's textile heritage. Sarees, dupattas, turbans and other garments are not only functional items but also have profound cultural and social significance that have shaped the societal paradigm
Despite their cultural importance, traditional artisans face numerous challenges that threaten the preservation of their crafts. Economic pressures, competition from mass-produced textiles, and a lack of access to markets are just a few of the obstacles these artisans confront. Furthermore, the younger generation's preference for modern, factory-produced clothing further exacerbates the decline of traditional textile crafts. As a result, many skilled artisans find themselves unable to make ends meet, leading to a gradual decrease in traditional knowledge and skills.
With the advent of open markets across the globe, traditional textiles had the opportunity to create new markets and expand. However, the globalisation of markets has both positive and negative implications for traditional textiles.
On one hand, it opens up new opportunities for artisans to reach a wider audience and showcase their craftsmanship on a global scale while on the other hand, globalisation brings the risk of cultural appropriation and exploitation, as mass-market brands often mimic traditional designs without providing due credit or fair compensation to the original artisans.
Consumers, both in India and globally, play a crucial role in determining the fate of traditional textiles. By making conscious choices and supporting artisanal products, consumers can contribute to the preservation of cultural heritage and sustainable livelihoods for traditional artisans.
Nonetheless, a growing trend towards reviving traditional textile-making techniques is emerging. Local organisations and governments are increasingly aware of the importance of preserving and promoting cultural heritage and have initiated programs to promote artisan communities. By incorporating these textiles into their designs, traditional textiles are becoming a new market.
By balancing the disparity between heritage and contemporary demand, traditional textiles can retain their cultural significance while adapting to changing fashion trends. This does not only ensure the preservation of cultural traditions, but also provides financial assistance for artisans.
Buy Handmade Products:
The process of purchasing handmade products is a fundamental way for consumers to support traditional artisans. Handcrafted textiles embody the artist's skill, creativity and cultural heritage. Choosing handmade items over mass-produced items not only ensures the preservation of traditional craftsmanship but also contributes to the livelihoods of artisans who depend on their abilities to make a living.
Shop at Artisan Markets:
Artisan markets provide a direct opportunity for consumers to connect with traditional artisans and purchase their products. These markets often showcase a variety of handmade textiles, allowing consumers to appreciate the uniqueness and authenticity of each piece. By actively seeking out and shopping at artisan markets, consumers contribute to the economic sustainability of traditional artisans.
Opting for fair trade products is a powerful way for consumers to ensure that traditional artisans receive fair compensation for their work. Fair trade principles prioritise ethical production, transparency, and social responsibility. By supporting fair trade, consumers contribute to the creation of a more equitable and sustainable ecosystem for traditional textile crafts.
Spread Awareness:
Spreading awareness is a crucial step in garnering support for traditional artisans. Through social media, blogs, and community participation, consumers can share stories of artisans, highlight the cultural significance of traditional textiles, and encourage others to make informed choices. Increased awareness fosters a collective sense of responsibility for preserving these age-old crafts.
Buy Geographical Indications (GIs):
Geographical Indications (GIs) are a form of intellectual property protection that ensures the authenticity and origin of traditional products. Consumers can actively seek out and purchase products with GIs, such as the Banaras saree or Kanchipuram silk, ensuring that they are supporting genuine traditional artisans and protecting against counterfeiting.
Support Artisan Cooperatives:
Artisan cooperatives are collaborative efforts where traditional artisans come together to pool resources and share knowledge. By contributing to these cooperatives, consumers contribute to the collective strength of artisans, enabling them to access markets more effectively, negotiate fair prices, and preserve their cultural heritage as a community.
Advocate for Policy Support:
Consumers can use their collective voice to advocate for policies that support traditional artisans. This includes advocating for financial incentives, market access, and intellectual property protection. By actively participating in advocacy efforts, consumers contribute to creating an enabling environment that ensures the long-term sustainability of traditional textile crafts.
Donate or Volunteer:
Consumers can contribute to the sustainability of traditional textiles by donating to relevant organisations or volunteering with organisations that support artisans. These actions can have a direct impact on initiatives focused on skill development, education, and economic empowerment for traditional artisans.
Promote Sustainable Practices:
It is essential to promote and support sustainable practices in traditional textile production in order to address environmental issues. Consumers can select products made with natural dyes, eco-friendly materials, and sustainable production methods. By promoting sustainability, consumers contribute to the overall well-being of both artisans and the environment.
Bollywood may have influenced the typical designer saree with all its glitzy embellishments, but traditional weaves with their understated elegance continue to be captivating. Consider the delicate gossamer chanderi, kanjivaram, banarasi, and tie-dyed fabrics from Rajasthan. India boasts a vast array of textiles, which contemporary designers are keen to draw from and reinterpret in fresh, avant-garde ways.
Indian fashion designers such as Ritu Kumar, Krishna Mehta, Rahul Mishra, and Anita Dongre are working tirelessly to preserve traditional fabrics. Anita Dongre, for instance, launched the Grassroots line a few years ago, a brand dedicated to showcasing India's handmade traditions. Through Grassroots, she partners with a network of esteemed NGOs in India that pioneer work with artisans, aiming to present these traditional methods to the global audience.
Ritu Kumar, an art history student turned acclaimed fashion designer, is an influential figure in conserving Indian textiles, serving as a beacon for preserving the country’s heritage. She is internationally recognised for her work in Indian textile conservation and revival. In her book, ‘Costumes and Textiles of Royal India’, she writes, “Documenting the legacy of textiles and costumes of an older order is like driving a stake into the flux of time to create a point of reference.”
Designers like Amy Billimoria advocate for the revival of traditional textile traditions and fair compensation for skilled artisans, along with better working conditions. Using various warp and weft processes, these designers produce many fusion and modern styles, appealing to fans of contemporary fashion. This culture of reviving old artistic practices not only enriches India’s heritage but also supports the craft of cloth-making, translating it into timeless beauty.
Despite the beauty of these textiles, many crafts are currently being discontinued as younger generations opt for more practical professional paths. The sad reality is that these traditions are passed down from parents to their children. Many of today's young people are not interested in continuing the practice, as they experience little financial gain.
Highlighting these crafts is essential to provide artisans with their deserved pride, dignity, fair wages, and decent living conditions. We must ensure that these traditions continue and inspire the next generation to maintain their ancestry. As the country progresses with the use of power looms, we must continue to protect our handloom tradition and culture, with designers collaborating to preserve the craft.
Artisans may not fully understand modern tastes and trends. Many designers believe it is their duty to bridge this gap. Thus, they create designs and commission the artisans to produce them, applying modern designs to traditional materials. These products appeal to a broader audience due to their contemporary style while preserving the artisans’ skills and traditional work.
Preserving traditional textiles is a shared responsibility that involves consumers, businesses, governments, and non-profit organisations. By making informed choices, advocating for fair trade practices, and actively connecting with traditional artisans, consumers play a pivotal role in upholding the sustainability of traditional textile crafts. Each thread carries the narratives of cultural heritage, and by supporting traditional artisans, consumers assume the role of stewards for these priceless legacies. In navigating the swiftly evolving world, the conscious decisions made today have the potential to mould a future where traditional textiles flourish, and the artisans driving them are not only celebrated but also economically empowered.
The consumer's impact on sustaining traditional textiles spans various dimensions, encompassing thoughtful purchasing decisions and active advocacy for supportive policies. Through endorsing handmade products, championing fair trade principles, and fostering direct engagement with artisans, consumers become indispensable contributors to the preservation of cultural heritage. As the choices we make intricately weave with the threads of tradition, consumers hold the authority to uplift artisans, ensuring that the craftsmanship, expertise, and narratives embedded in each textile endure across generations.
In this collective endeavour, consumers evolve into more than just patrons of traditional textiles; they emerge as guardians of a cultural legacy that transcends boundaries and stands the test of time. Through these united efforts, consumers not only endorse traditional textiles but also safeguard a cultural heritage that spans across borders and centuries.
Explore More About Fashion
- Enjoyed this article? Author Anushka Das delves deeper into the world of traditional textile Muga silk. - In another vein, she provides an elaborate discussion on crafting an effective fashion design brief—a valuable read for aspiring fashion enthusiasts. - If you're a student seeking a broader understanding of designing a fashion design portfolio or considering enrolling in a fashion design course, these articles are worth exploring.
Anushka Das, a distinguished Textile Design graduate from NIFT, New Delhi, boasts over 15 years of expertise in the textile and fashion domain. Having worked alongside esteemed designers Neeru Kumar and Ritu Kumar as Head Designer, she led numerou ... s design collections for both domestic and international clients. In 2010, she launched her label, Anushka-Annasuya, emphasizing Indian aesthetics fused with contemporary trends. Anushka collaborates with renowned brands like Fabindia, Jaypore, and Ajio for apparel and home design. During the pandemic, she co-designed the Anzen and Fiori range of fabric masks to support handloom weavers. Her remarkable contributions extend to projects with the Ministry of Textiles and various NGOs, uplifting artisans and promoting traditional crafts. Anushka’s passion for sustainability reflects in her brand’s philosophy of zero waste, and she continually strives to integrate crafts into modern lifestyles. As a respected jury member and consultant, shleaves an indelible mark on the fashion landscape.
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