Celebrating Iconic Women Fashion Designers Who Revolutionised How We Dress Today

Scroll through your Instagram feed today, and it's flooded with highlights from the much-sought-after Lakme Fashion Week 2024. Bold colours, innovative designs and a powerful creative expression—true celebration of feminine energy that's impossible to miss. Forget the glitz and glam of the fashion week for a moment. Let’s celebrate a different kind of runway—a walk through the chapters of the past where visionary women defied expectations, rewriting the narrative of how women dress and express themselves. The creative forces who fought for fashion to become more than just pretty clothes, but a platform for self-expression and a powerful tool in the fight for female agency?

Since it's also Women's History Month, let's take this opportunity to celebrate the iconic female forces who made it possible for fashion to be a language of empowerment, a way for women to claim their space, and express themselves confidently in the everyday world. This freedom of expression wasn't always a given. For centuries, women were confined by restrictive clothing like the corset, a symbol of societal expectations that dictated movement, comfort and even self-expression.

Examining the contributions of these iconic female designers is crucial, not just as a tribute to their legacy, but to understand the evolving role of fashion in society. This begs some crucial questions: What made these women groundbreaking? How did fashion become a platform for change and expression? Beyond trends, what deeper purpose did these designers strive for? How did these women designers act as agents of positive change—contrary to history, how does their work reflect comfort, freedom and self-expression?

Through the lens of their design interventions, this article explores the shifting silhouettes, but also the evolving fashion styles which reflected the spirit of each era (zeitgeist).

Let's take a walk through the timeline.

1. A. Pioneering the Path: Early Trailblazers in Fashion Design.
2. 1. Coco Chanel

Early 20th-century Parisian visionary, Gabrielle Coco Chanel, founder of celebrated fashion house Chanel, shattered the confines of corsetry, championing practicality.

Advocating a sense of female emancipation through a democratic androgynous (having both male and female characteristics) approach, her fluid silhouettes and loose designs offered women a greater sense of freedom and comfort.

Her revolutionary designs, like the "little black dress" and the use of jersey fabric, exemplify her avant-garde approach. Why? The colour black was commonly reserved for mourning during that era, or for formal wear. Coco Chanel's revolutionary use of jersey fabric emphasises the rebellion against the corset and positions the jersey as a symbol of liberation. Her belief, "Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury," resonated with affluent women seeking a more comfortable and practical alternative to the stiff, corseted styles of the era.

Similarly, the iconic Chanel suit, featuring trousers for women, became a symbol of post-war femininity and empowerment, reflecting a spirit of modernity in that era. Guided by her philosophy that "nothing is more beautiful than freedom of the body," her legacy continues to shape women's fashion till date.

Without Coco Chanel, who knows if women would have ever escaped the fuss and frills of the time?

1. 2. Elsa Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli, another Parisian design force, blurred the lines between art and everyday wear in her creations. How? She innovated traditional tailoring by incorporating unconventional elements such as prints, embroidery and unique materials, making distinctive fashion statements. Her hand-knit pullover, praised as a Vogue masterpiece, catapulted her to fame, landing her on Time's cover in 1934—a historic achievement for a women fashion designer. Schiaparelli's designs were also a huge hit among independent women, attracting her affluent clients.

The 1930s witnessed her iconic collaborations with surrealists: Salvador Dalí (lobster dress, shoe hat) and Jean Cocteau (whose art adorned coats, gowns, and jewellery).

Ever innovative, she introduced the "Constellation Wardrobe" in 1946, featuring six dresses, one reversible hat, and three folding hats, all weighing under six kilograms.

The weight was crucial because it addressed practical concerns related to travel restrictions, space limitations, and the need for women to be self-sufficient while travelling. But, Chanel and Schiaparelli weren't alone. Across the English Channel, another design force was blurring the lines between art and everyday wear.

III. Trailblazers of Contemporary Fashion

A. Vivienne Westwood

Emerging in the late 20th century, London-based Vivienne Westwood became known for her bold and provocative designs, especially the Punk aesthetic. Known as the ‘Queen of Punk,’ she challenged societal norms, empowering women through assertive self-expression with safety pins, bondage motifs, and tartan.

Westwood's eponymous fashion company is one of the last independent global entities. In 2004, the Victoria & Albert museum celebrated her 34-year career with a retrospective exhibition, marking the largest ever for a living British designer. Her practice extends beyond fashion, using collections and catwalk shows as platforms for positive activism. For years, Westwood has voiced concerns about climate change and over-consumption. Collaborating with the UN (United Nations), EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) and ITC (International Trade Centre) since 2011, she has mobilised global attention to ecological issues.

Emphasising ethical fashion practices, supporting marginalised African artisans and combating deforestation, Westwood's designs highlight fashion's potential as a vehicle for social commentary.

Beyond the West, designers like Rei Kawakubo were challenging conventional beauty standards with their avant-garde creations, while Ritu Kumar championed Indian heritage in a globalised fashion landscape.

B. Rei Kawakubo

Rei Kawakubo, founder of Tokyo-based Comme des Garçons, redefined the late 20th-century fashion. Renowned for avant-garde designs challenging conventional beauty norms, her philosophy centres on "mu" (emptiness) and "ma" (space), creating visual ambiguity. Rejecting traditional styles, Kawakubo's anti-fashion approach dismantles conventions, embracing monochromes, asymmetry and irregularities.

The name “Comme des Garçons” comes from Rei Kawakubo’s belief that women should not be expected to wear form-fitting clothes and that there is no need for them to be in high heels.

As the first Japanese designer at Paris Fashion Week, she represented black as her trademark, symbolising resistance. Rejecting symmetry, Kawakubo's wardrobe is termed "anti-fashion." Despite no longer designing clothes, she remains a leading global influencer, shaping the intersection of fashion and thought. Kawakubo's impact extends beyond clothing, inspiring a new generation of fashion enthusiasts to embrace the unconventional over easy trends.

C. Ritu Kumar

Vegetable dye prints, paisley patterns and gold Dabka work—heavily embroidered classics—and you know perhaps you’ve spotted the creations of the grande dame of Indian fashion Ritu Kumar. Delhi-based Kumar, who established her label in 1969, is considered a seminal figure—a pioneer who contributed significantly to the development of contemporary Indian fashion.

Back when India was burgeoning with globalisation, the markets being infected with Euro-centric brands like Zara and Mango, Ritu Kumar was among the handful of people in India who supported or advocated for the rich Indian craft and textile heritage.

Thanks to Ritu Kumar's vision, Indians today proudly recognise their own craftsmanship and design as a vital part of fashion. A Harvard Business School report credits her with reviving indigenous Indian design traditions, reversing a 150-year colonial influence.

Identifying the evolving aspirations of urban Indian women, Kumar's designs use natural fabrics, traditional crafts and bold colours into modern silhouettes. Notably, she introduced the concept of "boutique culture" to India, offering a personalised shopping experience tailored to the needs of the urban consumer base. Her designs have graced iconic international figures like Princess Diana and Bollywood star Madhuri Dixit, and she has received several accolades, including the Padma Shri award.

IV. Innovators of the 21st Century: Sustainability, Social Change and Pushing Boundaries

A. Stella McCartney

London-based Stella McCartney, a pioneer in sustainable fashion, demonstrates that luxury and compassion can coexist through her label and practices. Amidst the fashion industry's struggle with its considerable environmental impact, accounting for 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions, Stella McCartney is the only luxury fashion brand who has been at the forefront of fashion’s sustainability movement.

She's at the forefront of COP28 (United Nations Climate Change Conference), actively representing the fashion industry. But she's not stopping there. With the launch of 15 eco-friendly alternatives to materials like plastic, leather, and fur, and her partnerships with innovators like Econyl, she's driving sustainable fashion forward.

McCartney's practice is an inspiration across generations—it prompts us to rethink the environmental consequences of their work. Urging a broader perspective, she deserves recognition for highlighting the potential of fashion as a catalyst for positive change in the 21st century.

But sustainability is just one aspect of the revolution these designers are leading. Anita Dongre exemplifies how fashion can be a force for social change, while Iris van Herpen pushes the boundaries of fashion as an art form.

B. Anita Dongre

Mumbai-based Anita Dongre, a leading figure in the Indian fashion landscape, stands out for her contemporary interpretations of Indian aesthetics, placing comfort at the forefront. But what makes her iconic?

It's her unwavering dedication to sustainability that truly sets The House of Anita Dongre (her label) apart. With eco-friendly fabric choices and sustainable production processes, Dongre's brand leads the way in responsible fashion. But her impact extends beyond clothing; Dongre also drives social change through initiatives like the Grassroots project, uplifting rural artisans and preserving traditional crafts.

Each intricate embroidery on a flowing lehenga or the delicate beadwork on a cocktail dress is a testament to Dongre's Grassroot project. The fabric, perhaps, comes from a community that practises sustainable farming techniques. The intricate embroidery could be the work of a Grassroots artisan, their livelihood secured through Dongre's initiative. Every step, from sourcing to creation, reflects a deep respect for the environment and the human touch.

Anita Dongre's journey and impact crosses Indian borders. In 2018, she shattered the glass ceiling by becoming the first Indian designer to open a store in New York City. And just this year, she launched a second Grassroot store in SoHo, Manhattan. This paves the way for a future where Indian fashion stands shoulder-to-shoulder with international fashion brands, inspiring other Indian designers to dream big and pursue slow fashion practices.

Honoured by Fortune India as one of the nation's most powerful women, Dongre's global influence marks a monumental achievement for India and its fashion industry.

C. Iris van Herpen

Celebrated as one of the forward thinking fashion designers, Dutch-based Iris van Herpen’s journey into fashion began in her grandmother's attic, where she discovered a mini-museum of garments, sparking her fascination with bygone eras. Trained in classical ballet, the fluidity of movement influences her sensorial design philosophy, paving the way for conscientious forms of fashion.

She combines 3D printing with hand stitching to reimagine the possibilities of the human body. Known for her experimental spirit, she explored new fabrics by blending steel with silk or iron filings with resin, and incorporated unexpected materials like umbrella tines and magnets. Contemplating movement as a metamorphic force, Van Herpen's anatomy-defying garments extend from the human body, creating multi-dimensional silhouettes, garnering global acclaim.

Working at the nexus of fashion, design, technology, and science, Van Herpen's dynamic and path-breaking body of work continues to defy expectations, as hypnotic garments based on multilayered kinetic sculptures. Her works, defined within the fashion world as couture, are typically collected and shown in museums, viewed more often as fine art than as design-forward wearables.

V. Rising Stars and Future Influencers

A. Sindiso Khumalo

Cape Town-based fashion designer Sindiso Khumalo is celebrated for her comfortable, modern designs marrying African heritage. Yet, it's her commitment to sustainability and handmade crafts inspired by her Zulu and Ndebele roots that truly set her work apart. Through prints inspired by Zulu beadworks, floaty fabrics such as silk organza, frills and other local motifs she crafts what she calls “memory of a print.”

Khumalo, a designer with an architectural background and a textile focus, uses fashion as a tool for social change. Collaborating with NGOs and artisanal workshops across Africa, Khumalo explores themes of identity and representation, drawing from historical portraiture to celebrate the diversity and resilience of black women.

Equality and women's empowerment are at the heart of her work. Khumalo stands at the forefront of a new generation, proving fashion can be a powerful driver of socio-economic progress.

Her work has earned international acclaim, exhibited at prestigious institutions like the Smithsonian National Museum of African Art. Beyond her creative works, Khumalo is committed to supporting marginalised communities. She partners with organisations like Embrace Dignity to empower women of colour. Through her innovative designs and advocacy, she continues to redefine the role of fashion, inspiring change and challenging conventions.

On the other side of the world, the Indian subcontinent presents a different challenge when it comes to choosing a name. Here we have fashion designers like Aneeth Arora, whose brand Pero has skyrocketed to fame in a short time—marrying sustainability with artisanal craftsmanship. Then there’s Urvashi Kaur, a visionary whose eponymous label serves as a manifesto for Indian fashion. Committed to eco-consciousness, Kaur's designs are trans-seasonal, adaptable, and gender-inclusive, embodying the glocal ideology through mindful consumption and ethical creation. Meanwhile, Anavila Mishra has reshaped India's fashion narrative by introducing handwoven linen sarees, carving a niche for herself in the industry.

These pioneering women designers have challenged the fashion industry's status quo, reshaping power dynamics. Their interventions have paved the way for a more inclusive future today, allowing women to reclaim their sartorial agency and define their narratives through style. It's only fitting to honour these and many more iconic designers who have been the agents of positive change, transforming the landscape of style and self-expression for other women.

As we celebrate their contributions today, creating an environment conducive to the encouragement and empowerment of women is no longer solely a moral obligation but also a necessity. Spanning different periods and locations, their legacies extend beyond aesthetics, embodying progress and innovation and providing a platform to celebrate the freedom of self-expression. The stories of these iconic designers serve as a testament to their courage and vision, illustrating that fashion can be a catalyst for change. Their influence has inspired countless women over time to persist in disrupting conventional boundaries, ensuring that the future of fashion reflects the diverse voices and perspectives of women across the globe.

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