Analysing the Influence of High-End Trends: Trickle-Down Effect in Fashion

Table of contents

• Drivers of the Trickle-Down Effect: How Fashion Communication Shapes Consumer Desire
• Impact on Mainstream Styles and Consumer Behavior 
• The Evolution of Consumer Aspirations
• Technological Advancements and the Trickle-Down Effect
• Challenging the Trickle-Down Paradigm

 

The film "The Devil Wears Prada" offers a glimpse into the concept of trickle-down theory in fashion. In a now-iconic scene, Miranda Priestly (Meryl Streep) dissects the journey of a seemingly insignificant detail – a cerulean sweater. She reveals how high-end designers like Oscar de la Renta and Yves Saint Laurent establish trends, in this case, the colour cerulean. These trends are then adapted and disseminated by other designers, eventually reaching mainstream retailers at a more accessible price point. This scene aptly illustrates how fashion trends originate from the top of the fashion pyramid, eventually filtering down to influence the wardrobes of a wider audience.

The concept of the trickle-down theory was introduced by Thorstein Veblen in 1899. He was an economist and sociologist who believed that people purchased products to display their economic status and accomplishments. This theory applies similarly to fashion, where trends often originate at the top and gradually become accessible to the masses. A fashion trend originating at the top also serves as a means to showcase an individual's economic status and accomplishments.

Let's explore this theory with an example: In 2020, dad’s sneakers became a hit on the market. It all began with Louis Vuitton in 2018 during their fashion show, featuring the shoes called Arclight. Subsequently, other brands started adopting and innovating the same trend, such as Balenciaga, Nike and then Fila. Even brands like Vans departed from their classic styles and introduced bulky dad’s sneakers, like the Varix Wic. Once the trend reached the masses through Vans, it further proliferated through big-box stores.

The trickle-down theory in fashion occurs because not everyone can afford luxury brands like Louis Vuitton. When Arclight sneakers were introduced, they were priced at approximately 90,000 rupees. As the trend trickled down to Balenciaga, the price decreased to approximately 68,000 rupees. When Nike adopted the trend, their version was priced at around 17,000 rupees, and then Fila offered them for only 9,000 rupees. Eventually, big-box stores sold them for as little as 1,000 rupees, making them more economically accessible to a wider audience.

Trickle-Down Theory's Impact on the Fashion Design Industry

Trickle-down theory, where trends flow from high-end fashion to mainstream markets, undeniably shapes the fashion industry. However, even within this framework, designers must balance innovation with principles of fashion design, such as silhouette, proportion and colour theory, to create garments that resonate with consumers. Here's a closer look at its influence on designers, brands, and consumers.

1. Designers: When a haute couture designer, occupying the apex of the fashion hierarchy, initiates a trend, it exerts a prestigious influence on the industry. This influence often translates into increased sales and potential financial benefits through collaborations. For example, Diane von Fürstenberg's iconic wrap-around dresses, introduced in 1975-76 with a blend of cotton and rayon, continue to enjoy widespread popularity. These dresses have been adopted by numerous other high-end designers, fast fashion brands, and large retail chains, attesting to their enduring appeal and influence across various segments of the fashion market.

2. Brands: Fashion brands positioned in the mid-range or lower-end of the market can inspire people to purchase luxury goods at a budgeted price, bridging the gap between fashion design and fashion communication. However, excessive copying of high-end designs can disrupt brand originality and creativity. For instance, fast fashion brands like Zara often replicate high-end designs and offer them at significantly lower prices. This approach allows consumers to access trendy clothing pieces at more affordable prices, albeit raising questions about the authenticity and integrity of the fashion industry. 

3. Consumers: Consumers reap the rewards of this theory by gaining access to trendy clothing and footwear at different price ranges. For example, the same product, such as dad's sneakers, is available across a spectrum of price points. This accessibility enables consumers to purchase fashionable shoes at more affordable prices, ensuring that trendy styles are within reach for a wider range of individuals.

Criticisms of Trickle-Down Fashion

Criticism of the trickle-down effect in contemporary fashion discourse encompasses several key points:

1. Lack of Inclusivity: In the fashion industry, the authority to dictate trends is predominantly held by fashion innovators, high-end designers, and top management. Smaller trendsetters or designers often lack a platform to express their opinions, resulting in a dearth of innovation and creativity.

2. Environmental Impact: Constantly changing fashion trends driven by the trickle-down effect contribute to overconsumption and waste in the fashion industry. Consumers should be mindful of the environmental repercussions of fast-moving fashion trends.

3. Lack of Innovation: Relying solely on fashion innovators, influencers, and high-end designers for trendsetting can stifle creativity and uniqueness within the industry. This limited pool of trendsetters may lead to homogenised styles and a lack of fresh perspectives.

4. Cultural Appropriation: High-end designers sometimes draw inspiration from various cultures without proper consideration, leading to instances of cultural appropriation. For example, styles like boxer braids or cornrows may be appropriated from marginalised cultures without acknowledgment or respect.

5. Inequality: The trickle-down effect, where trends reach a larger audience, may exacerbate economic inequalities within the fashion industry. Garment workers often face unfair wages and working conditions as demand increases due to trend adoption, widening the economic divide.

Now in the coming paragraphs we are going to be discussing the drivers of trickle down theory and its impact on mainstream styles and consumer behaviour. 

Drivers of the Trickle-Down Effect: How Fashion Communication Shapes Consumer Desire

1. Media's Portrayal of Wealth and Aspiration
The role of media and influencers is immense in today's society, with platforms like social media, television shows and fashion magazines playing a significant part in shaping people's perceptions. They often portray wealthy individuals as aspirational and desirable, directly influencing consumers' psyche. Influencer culture, showcasing products, services, and experiences, fuels the desire of the average person to purchase items they believe will bring them happiness and fulfilment.

2. Celebrity Endorsements and FOMO:
Additionally, when celebrities endorse specific products, it further reinforces the trickle-down theory, as consumers are more likely to buy those endorsed products. Products endorsed by celebrities or influencers create a fear of missing out (FOMO) situation, leading people to buy material things to display their wealth.

3. Fashion Communication for Status Symbols and the Desire for Emulation: 
Desires for status and emulation are intricately linked to fashion communication, where the media plays a pivotal role in shaping perceptions of social standing. Through platforms like television, magazines, and social media, certain possessions and experiences are portrayed as indicators of status and success. 

Media's Depiction of Luxury:
For instance, when the media showcases designer clothing, luxury cars, and extravagant vacations, it triggers a desire among consumers to attain these symbols of affluence. The depiction of celebrities' lifestyles further fuels this aspiration, prompting individuals to elevate their spending on products or experiences in a bid to mirror such lifestyles. Moreover, the pervasive nature of social media intensifies the pressure to maintain a curated image of success in alignment with peers and influencers. Consequently, owning expensive items becomes not just about possession but also about gaining recognition and validation within one's social circle.

4. Democratising Trends Through Cost-Effective Production
Mainstream retailers and designers frequently leverage high-end trends to create more affordable options for a broader audience. They achieve this by utilising alternative materials, such as synthetic polyester instead of silk or cashmere, which closely resemble the originals. Additionally, they may employ different production techniques, such as power looms instead of handlooms, to reduce labour costs. Costing and pricing strategies are implemented to minimise overhead expenses and improve profit margins. As a result, consumers can obtain trendy apparel at a fraction of the cost of luxury items.

Impact on Mainstream Styles and Consumer Behavior 

Some case studies where high-end fashion trends that have influenced mainstream fashion:

1. Athleisure is a style of clothing that blends athletic wear with fashion, making it suitable for both sports activities and everyday wear. It first emerged in the early 2000s, introduced by luxury brands such as Chanel. Later, designers like Alexander Wang popularised the trend, incorporating sporty elements into their collections. As athleisure gained momentum, brands like Adidas and Nike embraced it, further solidifying its place in mainstream fashion. The impact was significant, as fast fashion giants like HM, Zara, and Gap quickly followed suit, incorporating athleisure into their offerings to meet the growing demand for comfortable yet stylish clothing.

2. Streetwear is a style of casual clothing that originated in urban communities and skate culture. It encompasses four main varieties: original, sportswear, adopted, and luxury. The trend was introduced by luxury designer Virgil Abloh through his brand Off-White. It then gained traction among high-end designers before eventually being adopted by mass-market fast-fashion brands like HM.

3.Sustainability has surged in popularity as awareness of the fashion industry's environmental impact has come to the forefront. This movement was championed by Vivienne Westwood, who advocated for fair labour practices and the use of eco-friendly materials. Her adoption of sustainable practices sparked industry-wide discussions, prompting brands like HM and Zara to introduce sustainable apparel lines.

In essence, the trickle-down effect significantly influences consumer purchasing behaviours, fostering brand loyalty among consumers. When individuals admire trends set by luxury brands but find themselves unable to afford them, their allegiance may shift to premium or mass-market brands that incorporate similar trends into their collections. For example, if renowned brands like Louis Vuitton introduce a chic open top at a premium price point, and subsequently, fast-fashion brands like Max Fashion offer a similar design at a more accessible price, consumers are likely to develop a stronger affinity towards the latter. This phenomenon underscores the profound impact of trend diffusion on brand loyalty within the fashion landscape.

The Evolution of Consumer Aspirations

In this section, we delve into the multifaceted aspects influencing the selection of fashion trends, ranging from psychological and societal factors to economic considerations. These interconnected elements play a pivotal role in shaping the trajectory of fashion preferences and consumer behaviour.

1. Psychological factors significantly influence consumer choices in fashion. Consumers select and wear clothing and accessories to express their individuality, personality, and identity. These choices are shaped by aspects such as self-esteem, self-image, and self-expression.

For some individuals, wearing bold colours serves to convey confidence, while others prefer minimalistic styles, which they perceive as representing sophistication. However, there exists a middle ground where individuals may opt for a blend of bold minimalism through techniques such as colour blocking. This involves wearing bright, solid-coloured garments while maintaining simplicity in accessories, such as opting for beige, gold, silver, or white jewellery, but avoiding black.
All of these choices vary according to the consumer's taste, preferences, and the image they wish to project.

2. Societal factors significantly influence fashion preferences, encompassing various aspects such as the environment, social interactions, peer influence, and the role of social media. For example, social media platforms play a pivotal role in shaping trends and showcasing aspirational lifestyles, which can influence consumers' fashion choices. The pervasive presence of fashion influencers and celebrities on these platforms can create a sense of urgency and desire to stay on trend. Consequently, consumers may feel compelled to purchase clothing and accessories to align with the perceived ideals of fashion and lifestyle depicted on social media.

3. Economic factors, such as income level and purchasing power, significantly influence fashion choices. Individuals with higher income levels often gravitate towards luxury and designer brands, while those with lower incomes prioritise value for money. Additionally, the amount of disposable income available to individuals plays a crucial role in determining their spending on fashion.

Technological Advancements and the Trickle-Down Effect

Technological advancements have played a significant role in helping the trickle-down effect in the fashion industry. 

1. Social media and influencer marketing has played a significant role in the movement of fashion from luxury brands to mass-market brands, enabling them to reach a wider clientele. Fashion innovators, influencers, and celebrities have further assisted fashion brands in recognizing and connecting with customers on a global scale. This movement has fueled the trickle-down effect, influencing customer preferences.

2. E-commerce and retail help social media by allowing brands to reach more customers directly, without relying on traditional stores. This benefits high-end fashion brands financially and spreads their trends to wider markets. Visual merchandising and store design also play a role in making online and physical stores attractive to shoppers.

Technology advancements have helped the fashion industry support trickle down effect and advancing trends and styles by using social media platforms, influence marketing and e-commerce.

Challenging the Trickle-Down Paradigm

The slow fashion movement champions sustainability and ethical practices, prioritising handcrafted and artisanal techniques over mass production. By favouring handwoven and handcrafted garments over those made using power looms, slow fashion disrupts the fast-paced trickle-down model prevalent in the fashion industry.

Additionally, the trickle-up approach to innovation challenges the traditional trickle-down theory by advocating for the influence of the masses or independent designers in driving fashion trends. This approach highlights examples such as the widespread adoption of denim jeans and the emergence of punk fashion, both originating from subcultures and grassroots movements before attaining mainstream popularity. These instances underscore the significance of bottom-up innovation in reshaping the fashion landscape and questioning the top-down dynamics inherent in the trickle-down paradigm.

In conclusion, the concept of trickle-down theory aptly illustrates the process of product adoption from the top to the bottom of the market. The key drivers behind this phenomenon include the influence of media and social media, the impact of influencers, the allure of status symbols associated with aspirational and luxury brands, accessibility, and adaptability.