History of Indian Jewellery

The history of Indian jewellery and the history of India almost dates back the same time and are wholly connected. The allure of jewellery and the beauty of Indian women due to their adornment are almost intertwined. 

Pebbles, animal skins, shells, threads, and crystals or stones were common components of ancient jewellery. The early men also employed these materials to decorate their bodies, signifying respect, dominance, and status as leaders. whereas it was mostly metal jewellery during the Indus Valley era. 

How India’s Jewellery Fascination Began Around 5000 Years Ago

India was the world's leading producer and exporter of beads at the time. The diamond and the diamond drill were both created in India, which we later taught the Romans how to use them. The artisans of the Indus Valley Civilization created tubular or barrel-shaped objects out of semi-precious materials including carnelian, agate, turquoise, faience, steatite, and feldspar, then decorated them with carvings, bands, dots, and patterns or set them minutely in gold. The ancient inhabitants of the Indus Valley Civilization were an incredibly intellectual group with a finely developed aesthetic sense, supported by intricate engineering abilities, as seen by the jewellery they created and wore. Consider the Mohenjodaro necklace that is currently on display in the Delhi National Museum's jewellery gallery.

The almost 5,000-year-old necklace is lined with pendants made of banded agate and jade beads that are strung by a thick gold thread that passes through each bead's precisely drilled hole.

One is amazed by more than simply technological prowess, though. The consistency of the design is another outstanding feature. For instance, the sheet gold forehead decoration has a design that you can still see women wearing in many regions of India. The ornament Didarganj Yakshi, one of the best examples of ancient Indian art that has a hallmark of Mauryan art is dated 3rd century BCE. That period is famous for the rich Mauryan polish found on the jewellery and art pieces. It is prominently worn in the centre of forehead, as well as the Rajasthani borla, are close approximations.

However, despite these early items' relative simplicity, Indian jewellery was about to become far more intricate in terms of design and craftsmanship. The Indian craftsman greatly improved his abilities during the 2,000 years that followed Mohenjodaro's fall. Therefore, the pendants of a pair of enormous earrings from this era have intricate micro-granulations, delicate filigree work on gold, and embossing work.

The paintings at Ajanta and the sculptures at Bharhut, Sanchi, and Amaravati show a variety of jewellery worn by men and women, kings and commoners. While an old Tamil classic from the Sangam era called Silappadikaram recounts a civilization that traded in gold, pearls, and precious stones, the travelogues of a Portuguese traveller named Paes describe the dazzling jewellery worn by the inhabitants of the Vijayanagar kingdom.

The Mughal Influence 

Mughal patronage provided the framework for the advancement of both traditional and cutting-edge jewellery-making practices. Designs from ancient India were subtly altered to include numerous geometrical, floral, and nature-inspired patterns. The crescent and stem design—often seen in earrings with a short stem at the summit of a crescent from which a fish was suspended—became a common element of Mughal jewellery.

In the Mughal era, artisans also developed the kundan process of putting stones in pure gold. In this instance, jewellery-grade gold was fused at room temperature. The inlaying of gold into stones is another method that the Mughals invented.

The Taj Mahal Emerald, one of the most prized gems in Indian history, is a magnificent hexagonal emerald that has been meticulously carved with stylized flowers that match the Taj Mahal's interior design.

The Jadau technique is thought to have been introduced to India by the Mughals, but Rajasthani and Gujarati artisans refined the art and gave it their own special touches to make it their own. Making a jadau entails beating or heating pure gold until it is malleable, sculpting a frame and motif, filling the hollow frame with lac, and placing valuable stones where necessary.

The jeweller begins the meenakari technique painstakingly adding one colour at a time to the piece after the stones are set using just heated gold and no other adhesive. This laborious technique yields a magnificent piece of jewellery that was and is suitable for kings. During this time, the popular Karanphool Jhumka arose as well, with each region adding its own distinctive embellishment to the fundamental flower-shaped earpiece.

The Hyderabadi Asaf Jahi Nizams were also renowned for their famous jewels. The previous Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan, who was once named the world's richest man by TIME magazine, possessed an incredible collection of jewellery.

He gave Queen Elizabeth II the beautiful Nizam of Hyderabad diamond necklace when she wed Prince Philip.

Indian Jewellery & Its Relevance In Present Times

It's interesting to note that as European influences spread over India, jewellery design began to change in style. Famous jewellery businesses like Cartier, Van Cleep & Arpels, Mellerio, and Chaumet Jewels also began creating pieces for Indian Kings and Queens in the 19th and 20th centuries. Cartier included South Indian floral patterns in their creations, creating a replica of styles inspired by our ancient jewellery.

Below: Indian-Inspired Jewellery Collection By Cartier

Jewellery serves a symbolic purpose in Indian culture. Particularly during weddings, they have ethnic and spiritual significance. Opting for traditional pieces rather than modern jewellery is still preferred in Indian weddings. The bride's jewellery is a sign that she will join her husband's family after they get married. They are a component of the ceremony of cleansing as she joins her bridegroom's extended family. Indian traditional jewellery has a lengthy history and is still renowned for its style. So much so that it is becoming one of the most sought-after designs globally because of their increasing popularity.

Interestingly, all our leading Bollywood ladies have opted for traditional jewellery designs for their wedding. 

How To Pick A Jewellery With Your Outfit

The importance of choosing jewellery that compliments your clothing and the occasion is on par with how crucial it is to choose an outfit that fits your body type and the situation. Women now have even more jewellery options thanks to American diamond, pearl, and gold-plated jewellery. Ever pondered why some people simply look shabby and disorganised in their dressing while others look fantastically attractive with a simple attire and some added bling? It all boils down to following a few fundamental rules for matching your jewellery to your dress and the occasion.

Every item of jewellery may make a statement on its own when it is worn in harmony. But because there are so many options for jewellery, we frequently choose the wrong kinds, which ultimately spoils the entire outfit. If you wear the right jewellery and an appropriate dress, everyone will be looking at you.

Here are some tips to help you grasp the fundamentals of jewellery choosing and pairing so you may look amazing at your upcoming event and prevent any mistakes.

• Size Matters

Your jewellery should be the right size for your attire. Very little jewellery may be overwhelmed by your dress and defeat the purpose for which you wore it. On the other hand, very huge jewellery may appear awkward and cumbersome.

Simple, little jewellery items go well with patterned, busy clothing. Stud earrings and short pearl necklaces are appropriate in this situation. Large jewellery looks good with plain clothing.

• Outfit & Jewellery Colour

When picking jewellery, colour is equally crucial, unless you want to seem like a rainbow. All outfits go well with gold and silver jewellery, and black, white, and grey are considered neutral hues. Use the colour wheel to get different colours. Select jewellery with hues similar to those in your attire, such as green and yellow-green. On the wheel, you can also select colours that are opposite one another, such as green and purple.

• Define Your Style

Jewellery selection is influenced by your personal style. It establishes the guidelines for using accessories. The accessories you choose will also depend on the style of your dress and the situation. Simple jewellery, such as stud earrings and a simple necklace, might help you project a professional image. A pearl necklace and diamond earrings will make a statement if you're going for a more traditional appearance at a formal event.

If you want to create an edgy style, try big jewellery; if you want to create a glamorous image, wear big necklaces and chandelier earrings. In truth, you might not always pick the ideal jewellery for your style. So experiment with several combinations before choosing on one that completely matches your personal taste.

• Know Your Skin Tone

You will look wonderful if your jewellery matches your attire. But wearing jewellery that compliments your clothes and skin tone will help you seem better. For persons with darker hair, gold highlights warm skin tones while silver is wonderful at emphasising the coolest complexion tones. But don't be scared to play around with the look. Go for it if your vibes are open to wearing something unusual.

Let’s give it up to the Indian craftsmen who have long been skilled in the art of cutting and polishing precious stones to create immaculate jewellery pieces. It is because of our rich traditional style of jewellery that it is still very much in vogue in the modern world, despite many western jewellery brands sprouting in the India market every year. Indian women’s first choice in jewellery is the traditional Indian inspired pieces. Do you have a particular favourite piece of jewellery?