The Art of Allure Discrète: Lingerie’s Role in Defining Fashion

Overview

The Art of Allure Discrète: Lingerie’s Role in Defining Fashion” explores how lingerie transcends function to become a powerful symbol of identity, style and empowerment. From its French cultural roots and historical evolution to modern trends, inclusive design and sustainable innovations, this article traces lingerie’s journey as both intimate apparel and fashion statement. It covers types of lingerie, fabric choices, comfort dynamics, leading global brands and the rise of lingerie-as-outerwear on runways—making a compelling case for why what’s worn underneath speaks volumes about the wearer.

Table of contents

• History of Lingerie in Fashion: A Journey Through Time
• Types of Lingerie in Fashion Design
• The Role of Comfort and Functionality in Fashion
• Leading Brands Shaping the Global Lingerie Market
• The Shift to Inclusivity and Innovation in Fashion Lingerie
• Sustainable Lingerie: Fashion with a Conscience
• Innerwear as Outerwear: A Bold Fashion Statement
• What a Lingerie Design Module Looks Like in Fashion Education
• The Future of Lingerie in Fashion: Trends and Innovations

Growth of Fashion E-commerce

Lingerie is more than just what you wear under your clothes. It's a key expression of personal style, blending seamlessly into the larger conversation around the evolving role of fashion in shaping identity and self-expression. In France, lingerie isn’t just functional—it’s woven into the fabric of daily life, subtly revealing just enough to create intrigue. This is where 'Allure Discrète' comes into play—the art of veiled seduction, where the hidden becomes a powerful part of the fashion statement.

The word "lingerie", derived from the French word for "linen," encompasses more than traditional undergarments—it complements clothing, often peeking through to embody Allure Discrète. For French women, lingerie is deeply woven into their culture, reflecting a natural ease with their bodies and an effortless sense of elegance. From bras to shapewear, lingerie evolves with modern lifestyles and fashion trends. It strikes a perfect balance between function and style, offering a mix of timeless classics and contemporary designs

Throughout history, women’s undergarments have served multiple purposes beyond mere coverage. They have been designed to:

• Flatten or enhance the figure, depending on historical fashion trends.
• Support and mould the body for a desired silhouette.
• Accentuate curves, creating a more confident and empowered look.
• Provide comfort, ensuring functionality without sacrificing aesthetics.

History of Lingerie in Fashion: A Journey Through Time

Lingerie and undergarments in general, have a long and varied history, evolving in response to changing societal needs and aesthetics. From their earliest days, undergarments served both practical and aesthetic purposes.

• Prehistoric and Ancient Undergarments in Fashion History

  In the earliest times, garments like loincloths were used for modesty and practicality. Ancient Greek and Roman women wore the strophium, an early form of a bandeau-style bra, made of linen or leather to support the bust.

• The Middle Ages and Renaissance: Lingerie’s Role in Fashion Evolution:

  Modesty was paramount in medieval Europe and women typically wore long chemises beneath their clothing. During the Renaissance, the corset emerged as a fashionable way to enhance the body’s silhouette, evolving from a supportive undergarment to one that dramatically shaped the waist.

• 18th and 19th Centuries: Shaping Lingerie’s Place in Fashion 

  As corsets and petticoats became more elaborate, women began to wear structured garments designed to emphasize an exaggerated hourglass figure. Innovations in materials like rubber and elastic made these garments more comfortable, offering greater flexibility.

• Early 20th Century: The Fashion Revolution in Lingerie

  The introduction of the brassiere by Mary Phelps Jacob in 1914 marked a turning point, as women sought less restrictive options. This era also saw the rise of simpler, more practical undergarments made of cotton, silk and nylon.

• Mid-20th Century: Lingerie as a Fashion Statement

  The 1950s brought back the structured, curvy silhouette popularised by Christian Dior’s New Look, while the 1960s feminist movement rejected restrictive undergarments, embracing more natural, comfortable styles.

• Late 20th and Early 21st Centuries: Lingerie’s Impact on Modern Fashion

  Innovations like Lycra and Spandex revolutionised lingerie, offering unprecedented comfort and stretch. The late 20th century also saw the rise of fashion-forward lingerie, with bright colours and bold prints making an appearance and the introduction of gender-neutral styles like boxers and boy shorts.
 

Lingerie becomes a powerful form of self-expression and confidence. How often do we consider that what we wear underneath can shape how we feel? Beyond aesthetics, it empowers women to feel comfortable in their own skin, blending fashion with personal empowerment. As lingerie evolves, it remains a symbol of femininity, comfort and individuality.

Types of Lingerie in Fashion Design

The lingerie industry continues to evolve, driven by changing consumer preferences and technological advancements in textile production. Today, a wide array of lingerie styles caters to different needs, including:

• Brassieres (Bras) –

  Providing support, shaping and style.

• Control Briefs & Shapewear –

  Designed to contour and enhance the body’s natural silhouette.

• Garters & Stockings –

  Adding a classic and sensual touch to lingerie ensembles.

• Foundation Garments & Corsets –

  Historically used to shape and structure the torso.

• Bustiers –

  Combining the appeal of lingerie with structured support.

Choosing the right fabric is essential when it comes to lingerie, as it directly impacts comfort, fit and overall appeal. The ideal lingerie should be soft, breathable and lightweight, offering a perfect balance of support and sensuality. Whether one  prefers something luxurious, practical, or a blend of both, understanding the best fabrics can help one  make an informed decision. 

Lace: Timeless Elegance and Romance

Lace is one of the most popular and elegant fabrics used in lingerie. Delicate, romantic, and feminine. Often made from synthetic fibres today for stretch and durability. Used in bras, bralettes and detailing.

Silk: The Ultimate in Luxury

Silk is a natural fibre known for its soft, smooth texture and unparalleled elegance. Luxurious, breathable and temperature-regulating. Perfect for high-end lingerie and slip dresses. Moisture-wicking and ultra-soft.

Satin: A Silky-Smooth Experience

Satin is not a fabric but a weave that produces a glossy, smooth surface—can be made from silk, nylon, or polyester. Known for its smooth finish and elegant drape.

Cotton: Breathable and Comfortable

Soft, breathable and hypoallergenic. Great for everyday lingerie and sensitive skin. Often blended with spandex for stretch.

Microfiber: The Modern Choice for Seamless Comfort

Microfiber is a fine synthetic fibre known for its lightweight feel and exceptional softness. It is a popular choice for seamless lingerie, as it provides a smooth, invisible finish under clothing and moisture-wicking. Ideal for invisible fits under clothes. Durable and easy to maintain.

Rayon: A Silk-Like Alternative

Rayon is a semi-synthetic fabric made from regenerated cellulose fibres. It is often chosen as a cost-effective alternative to silk because of its similar softness and smooth texture. Often blended for better fit and durability.

Spandex (Elastane): The Key to Flexibility and Support

Spandex, is a synthetic fibre that provides exceptional stretch and flexibility. It is commonly blended with other fabrics like cotton, lace and microfiber to create lingerie that offers both comfort and support. Adds stretch and structure, especially in shapewear.

The Role of Comfort and Functionality in Fashion

Comfort in lingerie is deeply personal—what feels light and effortless to one may lack essential support for another. Since no two busts are the same, exploring different bra styles is key to finding the perfect balance of comfort and functionality.

Underwire vs Wireless

Underwires offer structure and lift; wireless bras allow for more natural movement.

Padding & Lining

Padded bras provide shape and modesty. Unlined ones are lighter and more breathable. Silhouette Matters

• Bralettes: Wire-free, minimalist—great for lounging.
• Full-coverage & balconette bras: Offer enhanced support and shape.
• T-shirt bras: Seamless with light padding for everyday use.
• Sports bras: Designed for activity—choose between compression and encapsulation.
• Other styles: Racerback, plunge, and demi-cup options cater to different outfits and preferences.

Bottom Line

The best bra is one that fits your lifestyle—whether it’s structured, breathable, or somewhere in between. With endless options, comfort today is all about personal fit, not one standard formula.

Leading Brands Shaping the Global Lingerie Market

The lingerie industry is defined by a diverse mix of brands, each offering a unique appeal.

• Victoria’s Secret (founded in 1977) is renowned for its glamorous, sexy lingerie and iconic annual fashion show.
• Calvin Klein blends minimalism with modern style, recognised for its sleek designs and signature branded waistbands.
• Chantelle (established in 1876, France) is synonymous with craftsmanship and sophisticated lingerie.
• La Perla (founded in 1954, Italy) is a luxury label known for exquisite lace, silk and embroidery.
• Hanesbrands Inc. dominates the mass market with everyday essentials from brands like Hanes, Maidenform and Bali.
• Savage X Fenty, launched by Rihanna in 2018, revolutionised the industry with inclusive sizing, bold designs and body-positive messaging.
• Wacoal (Japan) prioritizes comfort and fit, catering to a mature audience.
• Triumph (founded in 1886, Switzerland) offers lingerie, shapewear and swimwear across 120+ countries.
• Aerie, a sub-brand of American Eagle, champions body positivity with unretouched campaigns and affordable, comfortable lingerie.
• Agent Provocateur (established in 1994, UK) is celebrated for its provocative and sensual designs.

From everyday essentials to high-fashion luxury, these brands continue to shape trends and influence consumer preferences worldwide.

The Shift to Inclusivity and Innovation in Fashion Lingerie

Lingerie brands are redefining traditional norms by catering to diverse body types, genders and personal styles. Consumers aged 25 to 50+ see lingerie as an extension of their identity, choosing designs that reflect their moods and lifestyles. This shift has fuelled market growth, increasing demand for pieces that blend aesthetics with practicality.

From gender-inclusive underwear to period-proof and adaptive lingerie, the industry is innovating to meet real-life needs. Plus-size collections and non-wired bras prioritize comfort, ensuring lingerie is not only stylish but also functional and empowering.

Sustainable Lingerie: Fashion with a Conscience

Building an eco-conscious wardrobe includes exploring sustainable lingerie brands. While second-hand shopping works for most clothing, new intimates are preferred for hygiene reasons. Thankfully, many brands now offer eco-friendly options made from biodegradable fabrics like organic cotton, bamboo, hemp and TENCEL™. Choosing lingerie crafted from sustainable or recycled materials supports both comfort and environmental responsibility. Whether it’s an organic cotton bralette or a recycled lace bodysuit, sustainable lingerie lets you feel good—for yourself and the planet.

Innerwear as Outerwear: A Bold Fashion Statement

The lingerie-as-outerwear trend is no longer fringe—it’s a full-fledged fashion movement. What started with Madonna’s Jean-Paul Gaultier corset in the ’80s has evolved into high-fashion statements seen across runways today.

Gucci brought back vintage glamour with bustier slips and garter belts. Loewe played with sheer layering, styling briefs under translucent blouses. Fendi paired lace bralettes with sharp suits, blending sensuality and power dressing. JW Anderson embraced match-sets, and Miu Miu reimagined lingerie for everyday wear, styling cupped bras as tops with bold accessories.

Some brands even skipped pants altogether—briefs were the centerpiece, paired with heels and delicate fabrics like ruffled eyelets and tulle. Designers like Rodarte and Louis Vuitton took it into evening wear, showcasing lace-trimmed slips perfect for both parties and polished layering.

What was once hidden is now celebrated—lingerie is no longer just an undergarment but a symbol of confidence, craftsmanship, and creative expression in fashion.

Celebrities Championing the Lingerie-as-Outerwear Fashion Trend

Celebrities have played a key role in popularizing this movement:

• Bella Hadid effortlessly merges comfort with high fashion, often seen in sheer tops with visible bras.
• Julia Fox embraces bold, lingerie-inspired looks, sporting corsets and lace bodysuits as part of her signature street style.
• Zoë Kravitz epitomizes understated sensuality, recently pairing a delicate lace bralette with a tailored blazer for a strikingly sophisticated ensemble.

From the runway to real life, lingerie as outerwear is no longer just a fleeting trend—it is a powerful statement of confidence, self-expression and modern femininity.

The Evolution of India’s Lingerie Market: A New Fashion Statement

The Indian lingerie market is no longer just about functionality—it’s a fast-growing fashion segment driven by personal style, comfort and confidence. As lingerie becomes more expressive and inclusive, it’s also becoming central to fashion design education.

Rapid Growth

• Market size: USD 4.9 billion in 2023
• Projected: USD 10.9 billion by 2032
• Growth rate: CAGR of 9.32% (Source: IMARC Group)

Key Indian Lingerie Brands

• Clovia: Trendy innerwear, nightwear, and activewear at affordable prices.
• Zivame: Online-first, known for comfort and size inclusivity.
• Amante: Stylish lingerie and swimwear.
• Enamor: Focus on everyday comfort and affordability.
• Pretty Secrets: Budget-friendly, fashion-forward options.

Global Players for Lingerie in India

• Jockey: International brand with strong Indian presence.
• La Senza: Canadian brand with bold, stylish collections.
• Hunkemöller: UK and Dutch brands known for quality and fit.

As the market evolves, so do the opportunities for fashion designers—making lingerie a must-study category in future-forward design programs.

Changing Consumer Mindset in Fashion Lingerie

Indian women now have a wide range of lingerie options, with demand rising due to higher disposable income, urbanization, changing perceptions and media influence. While metro and Tier-I cities lead this shift, Tier-II and Tier-III cities are quickly catching up, with women prioritizing comfort, style and quality. E-commerce has further boosted accessibility, especially post-pandemic, prompting brands to focus on personalization, targeted marketing and deeper consumer insights.

Market Segmentation and Growth Trends in Lingerie Fashion

The Indian lingerie market is divided into economy, mid-market, premium and super-premium segments. While the economy and mid-market dominate, premium segments are expanding rapidly. This growth is driven by a shift from unorganized to organized retail, with global brands, exclusive stores and online platforms reshaping the industry.

How Lingerie Inspires Modern Fashion Design: Lessons from the Art of Allure Discrète

If you’re considering a bachelor in fashion design, chances are you’re already curious about how garments shape identity—not just on the surface, but underneath. One often overlooked category that’s becoming increasingly important in the curriculum of top fashion design colleges in India is lingerie design.

Why Lingerie Matters in Fashion Design Courses Today

Modern fashion design is as much about empathy and engineering as it is about aesthetics. Designing for comfort, inclusivity, and innovation starts with understanding intimate wear. In top fashion design courses, students learn how lingerie:

- Shapes the silhouette and identity.

- Informs outerwear trends (think visible bralettes, sheer layering, corset-inspired tops).

- Pushes textile and construction boundaries.

- Reflects social change, like body positivity and gender neutrality.

What a Lingerie Design Module Looks Like in Fashion Education

A sneak peek into what you might explore in a fashion design degree:

• Understanding stretch fabrics like Spandex, microfiber, and modal.
• Draping and flat pattern techniques for intimate garments.
• Industry-standard software used for lingerie CAD design.
• Market trends: inclusivity, sustainability, and functionality.

The Future of Lingerie in Fashion: Trends and Innovations

The modern lingerie industry is evolving, reflecting consumer values of comfort, functionality and self-expression. No longer just an undergarment, lingerie celebrates individuality, confidence and style. In India, organized retail, premium branding and innovative marketing are driving growth, making lingerie an essential wardrobe staple. With a focus on body positivity, inclusivity and sustainability, the industry is blending tradition with modernity, aesthetics with empowerment and fashion with function. As lingerie embraces diversity and innovation, its future promises to be more inclusive, comfortable and sustainable than ever.

Sadly, it’s not always an easy feat to find plus-size lingerie brands designing expertly crafted intimates with size inclusivity in mind.But there are a few brands who are making  beautifully-designed bras, which are made with bigger cups for extra coverage. With bras in sizes that go up to a K cup. As the lingerie industry evolves, it’s becoming an essential area of study in forward-thinking fashion design education.